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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.